Bell Point, Lunsemfwa Wonder Gorge

With a 4-day weekend beckoning us in early July, we decided to try and visit somewhere my husband has wanted to go for many years: Wonder Gorge, at the confluence of the Lunsemfwa and Mkushi Rivers, in Central Province. Lying only 150km east of Kabwe, this is an area of Zambia within easy reach of Lusaka, however, virtually no information is available on the site, and after making it out that way, it's safe to say that it isn't a well-used tourist trail!

Planning for the trip, we came across a couple of tourist guides mentioning that camping was possible at Bell Point, the site overlooking the river confluence, and at the Mulungushi Boat Club (below), 55km from Kabwe on the road to Bell Point. So with this in mind we set off with a general plan to head to Mulungushi, stay the night at the boat club, before making our way to Bell Point for a couple of nights. Delays in Lusaka meant a late start, with us arriving at the Boat Club around 4pm. Although a beautiful setting with pool, chalets, bar and view over the Mulungushi Dam, what we didn't expect to find was a large group gearing up for a weekend party - despite being a lovely spot that we'll definitely return to, this wasn't the peace and quiet and remote bush we'd set out to find for the weekend!

So, somewhat unwisely (definitely unwisely in retrospect!) we decided to continue, thinking it was another 50km or so until Bell Point, a manageable distance in the remaining two hours of daylight. Almost two hours later, realising our mistake, we arrived at Lunsemfwa Town, darkness coming, with around 50km of poor road still to go until Bell Point.

With extremely  vague directions to follow, we decided on a Plan B for the night, to pitch the tent near a village and head off again in the morning. However, we soon found out that this is obviously not a common request in these parts, as we were met with many puzzled looks and suggestions to continue in each village we stopped at. With tiredness and frustration finally hitting us, we found a deserted-looking spot at the end of a forest, quickly got the tent up and climbed in for some sleep. Rising with the sun, we scrambled out to find ourselves about 100m from a village, but no harm done, we packed up and got on our way!

Following directions from our Bradt Zambia guide book, we began searching for the right turn-off towards the gorge. After some helpful directions in villages and a few wrong turns, we began to realise that 'Bell Point' is also the name of a village and not just a tourist site. Luckily though, the turn-off to the site is from Bell Point village and after a few more backtracks and directions we began to feel hopeful about actually getting there! With the route growing steadily more remote and beautiful we left the last village behind and began to climb through dense woodland, winding our way towards the point flashing on our GPS.  Finally emerging into a clearing, we were hit by this spectacular view. Journey forgotten we gazed around, awestruck by the vastness of the gorge, the views stretching out in every direction and the fact that we had the place completely to ourselves, in fact, for about a 10km radius!

First things first, we set up the tent and made coffee.  The site is small, perhaps 20m x 20m but large enough for a group of people. There is no water or toilet, so bring bottles and a shovel! But someone has cleared the grass and begun constructing wooden tables and steps down to the lookout point. The urge to climb down the gorge and reach the river had us searching for paths almost immediately. However, the sides are steep and scrambling is definitely needed. Heading round to the south Mkushi River side of the gorge, we spent the next few hours happily climbing down rocks, climbing back up when they turned into much larger (dry) waterfalls and exploring before admitting descent wasn't possible via that route. The following day had us trying out the northern side towards the Lunsemfwa River, tracking various dry streams before finally reaching the bottom, covered in dust, ash from recent burning and mud from sliding on our bums a few times! The sound of the river had steadily grown louder and it was truly amazing to emerge out of the bushes  and look up at the gorge - before diving into the water to cool off!

The joy of swimming in a river miles from anywhere and experiencing such incredible scenery made the many hours of dusty road completely worth it. Even the steep climb back to camp - and lack of shower at the top - couldn't take away from the place. Sitting with a glass of wine, fire lit, watching the sun go down over the gorge, we felt utter relaxation and peace. If you're up for the challenge, this is definitely an alternative side of Zambia to visit.

Some Practicalities:

• As mentioned above, make sure to bring plenty of water and all other essentials - it's a long trek down to the river to fill up your bottles, and very far to the nearest shop!
• There are cell phone towers on the road towards Bell Point, so network should be available in places, but we couldn't reach MTN. Be prepared for no connection, making sure to let people know where you're going.
• Access during the wet season may be difficult given the condition of the roads. Scrambling down to the river from the top of the gorge may also be tricky when streams are flowing.
• Should you wish to stay at Mulungushi Boat Club call Frederick Mulungushi on 097 968 5349.

Directions:

• From Lusaka, travel to Kabwe and take the first right turn immediately before the first rail crossing. Continue straight, crossing a small rail track and then veering slightly left to cross over the main rail line. Turn immediately right and then follow the left fork. This road is in decent condition (ok for 2x2) and continues for around 50km until you reach a sign on the left for Mulungushi Boat Club.
• Continuing on to Bell Point the road steadily decreases in quality and 4x4 is needed to complete the remaining 3.5 hours of the journey. Here I will try and provide more detailed directions as there are no signs, especially given how lost we got in places.
• After 4km from the Mulungushi Boat Club sign cross two bridges over the Mulungushi River and keep left. 
• After 2km (6km) take the left fork signed 'Lunsemfwa Power Station'. 
• After 24km (32km) you pass through a mine site, keep left on the main road.
• After 11km (43km) take the right fork signed 'Lunsemfwa Power Station'.
• After 4km (47km) cross over the Lunsemfwa Bridge and pass Lunsemfwa Town on the right. Within a further 1km take the right fork at a white marker post. This section of the route, from Mulungushi Boat Club to Lunsemfwa Town takes approx 1.5 hours.
• After 6km (54km) continue straight, passing a large right hand turn. A further 6km (60km) will be the last significant village before Bell Point village.
• After 6km (66km) arrive in Bell Point village, approximately 30 minutes after leaving Lunsemfwa Town. Take a right hand turn after you pass some houses. This is difficult to spot, so ask in the village. The turn looks as if it goes back the way you came. 
• After 2km (68km) take the right fork and then keep right after a further 2km (70km).
• Continue to follow the main road, continuing over a crossroads after 5km (75km) and through a village with a mill after 3km (78km).
• After 3km (81km) take the left fork, passing a community school after a further 5km (86km).
• After 1km (87km) take the left fork signed 'Mkushi Dam Site'.
• After 1km (88km) take the right fork with a borehole sign ending '04'. Pass two further borehole signs ending '01' and '03'. 
• After 5km (93km) take the right fork at the 'Mkushi Dam' sign. Another 6km (99km) or so, approximately 1.5 hours after leaving Bell Point village and around 6 hours after leaving Lusaka, you arrive at Bell Point!


Enjoy!





Road to Lunsemfwa