Blue Lagoon National Park

Browsing through our various guide books, we've been on the search for places closer to Lusaka for those weekends where heading off on a Friday afternoon just isn't possible. Blue Lagoon National Park, only 120km south-west of Lusaka, seemed to be just the place. Information in books and online seemed to be limited, so we decided to set off one Saturday morning and see what was we found.

Three and a half hours later, after 80km on a dirt road, we were really hoping the park did in fact exist and would be worth it! Although technically close, the drive through Lusaka centre and out towards Mumbwa is guaranteed to be busy, and the lack of signs as you head in the direction of the park is slightly unnerving. Following a very tiny map in the Zambia Bradt travel guide, we took a guess at a left turn, passed what looked like the former park gates and entered a clearing and the site of the former Nakeenda Lodge. This was clearly a beautiful lodge at one stage, with a large reception area and thatched chalets dotted around. Finding a lone worker attempting to rehabilitate one of the chalets, we asked about the camp, learning that it had recently been sold and was undergoing renovations. It was fine for us to pitch our own tent in the meantime though, paying the park entry fees and entering our names in a guest book.

As we began to explore, we were struck by the utter peace and remoteness, with only the sound of birds and wind in the trees to keep us company. Emerging out of the woodland, the landscape opened out onto the vast Kafue Flats, reaching as far as the eye could see. The original owners of the site, the Critchleys, built a causeway extending 5km out into the Kafue Flats, which although overgrown, is still passable. Walking along here in the late afternoon, sunbathing monitor lizards dived into the swampy waters and flocks of birds went from one tree to the next ahead of us, keeping a safe distance but maintaining their chatter. Hearing a sudden splashing, we turned in time to see a group of Lechwe leap through the water into taller reeds.

This was definitely a worthwhile trip!

Lilac-breasted roller, Malachite kingfisher, Cormarant

Heading back to camp, we settled in with our fire and began the braai, watching the moon rise and light up the trees, listening to the gentle bells of cattle as they walked through camp towards the swamps.

An early start got us to the end of the causeway for sunrise and what an experience it was! Surrounded on all sides by wetlands, you're completely alone in the world, watching the light change and the birds going about their business. Sadly the viewing platform at the end is somewhat disintegrated, but sitting on the few remaining beams we sipped some hot coffee and looked out on the world, feeling incredibly lucky to be experiencing such amazing views and peace.

Blue Lagoon is definitely a place we'll be heading back to and exploring more; the Kafue Flats are supposedly home to a number of large pythons which can be viewed in a series of pools, although given the extent of undergrowth in June we chose note to venture too close on this trip. We'd also love to head out into the waters on a makoro, to discover more of the wetlands and the wildlife hiding inside.

It's unfortunate that the road conditions limit access to the Park, as Kafue National Park can be reached in about the same time, on a tar road. However, for anyone interested in birds, wetlands and generally getting away from things, Blue Lagoon is the place to go. With the right support, this park can hopefully develop to continue protecting such a diverse ecosystem and offer this experience to people in Zambia. There's also a Blue Lagoon Trust www.bluelagoontrust.org for those who'd like to get more involved.

So, a few practicalities for anyone who fancies exploring:

Getting There:

• Although there are rumours that the road towards Blue Lagoon is going to be tarred, the current road there is predominantly dirt. It should be passable with a 2x2 but would be uncomfortable - 4x4 vehicle is recommended. 
• The total journey time from central Lusaka is 3 - 3.5 hours. I'd make sure you do this in daylight given the road condition and limited signage.
• Basic directions to the camp:
• Take the Mumbwa road out of Lusaka for at least 25km. You go through a road block and past a couple of left turns before coming to the correct turn off on the left opposite a small filling station. There is a faded sign for Blue Lagoon, but the most obvious sign is for Nampundwe Mine.
• The road is graded for about 15km towards the mine and then continues on in a less well-kept fashion. You'll drive through a few small villages along the way and pass a large road right (towards Mumbwa). This drive seems to go on forever - about 80km in total - but eventually you'll pass through the village of Keezwa and about 8km from here enter another small settlement with a small turn left. There's a faded sign saying something about exploring Blue Lagoon, and a large termite mound.
• Take the left hand turn and continue along this track (which looks as if no one has ever passed it) for about 5km and you'll enter the former Nakeenda Lodge.

At Camp

• Be prepared to be entirely self-sufficient. Nakeenda Lodge is set to re-open at some point, but from the state of the site at the moment, this will take some time. Other camps are meant to exist further along the dirt road, although we didn't travel this far to confirm. There is a rudimentary pit latrine but no running water available.
• At the time we went the grass was very long and there are obviously snakes and other creepy crawlies around so be aware in terms of footwear / first aid kit etc
• Other than that enjoy!