Bell Point, Lunsemfwa Wonder Gorge

With a 4-day weekend beckoning us in early July, we decided to try and visit somewhere my husband has wanted to go for many years: Wonder Gorge, at the confluence of the Lunsemfwa and Mkushi Rivers, in Central Province. Lying only 150km east of Kabwe, this is an area of Zambia within easy reach of Lusaka, however, virtually no information is available on the site, and after making it out that way, it's safe to say that it isn't a well-used tourist trail!

Planning for the trip, we came across a couple of tourist guides mentioning that camping was possible at Bell Point, the site overlooking the river confluence, and at the Mulungushi Boat Club (below), 55km from Kabwe on the road to Bell Point. So with this in mind we set off with a general plan to head to Mulungushi, stay the night at the boat club, before making our way to Bell Point for a couple of nights. Delays in Lusaka meant a late start, with us arriving at the Boat Club around 4pm. Although a beautiful setting with pool, chalets, bar and view over the Mulungushi Dam, what we didn't expect to find was a large group gearing up for a weekend party - despite being a lovely spot that we'll definitely return to, this wasn't the peace and quiet and remote bush we'd set out to find for the weekend!

So, somewhat unwisely (definitely unwisely in retrospect!) we decided to continue, thinking it was another 50km or so until Bell Point, a manageable distance in the remaining two hours of daylight. Almost two hours later, realising our mistake, we arrived at Lunsemfwa Town, darkness coming, with around 50km of poor road still to go until Bell Point.

With extremely  vague directions to follow, we decided on a Plan B for the night, to pitch the tent near a village and head off again in the morning. However, we soon found out that this is obviously not a common request in these parts, as we were met with many puzzled looks and suggestions to continue in each village we stopped at. With tiredness and frustration finally hitting us, we found a deserted-looking spot at the end of a forest, quickly got the tent up and climbed in for some sleep. Rising with the sun, we scrambled out to find ourselves about 100m from a village, but no harm done, we packed up and got on our way!

Following directions from our Bradt Zambia guide book, we began searching for the right turn-off towards the gorge. After some helpful directions in villages and a few wrong turns, we began to realise that 'Bell Point' is also the name of a village and not just a tourist site. Luckily though, the turn-off to the site is from Bell Point village and after a few more backtracks and directions we began to feel hopeful about actually getting there! With the route growing steadily more remote and beautiful we left the last village behind and began to climb through dense woodland, winding our way towards the point flashing on our GPS.  Finally emerging into a clearing, we were hit by this spectacular view. Journey forgotten we gazed around, awestruck by the vastness of the gorge, the views stretching out in every direction and the fact that we had the place completely to ourselves, in fact, for about a 10km radius!

First things first, we set up the tent and made coffee.  The site is small, perhaps 20m x 20m but large enough for a group of people. There is no water or toilet, so bring bottles and a shovel! But someone has cleared the grass and begun constructing wooden tables and steps down to the lookout point. The urge to climb down the gorge and reach the river had us searching for paths almost immediately. However, the sides are steep and scrambling is definitely needed. Heading round to the south Mkushi River side of the gorge, we spent the next few hours happily climbing down rocks, climbing back up when they turned into much larger (dry) waterfalls and exploring before admitting descent wasn't possible via that route. The following day had us trying out the northern side towards the Lunsemfwa River, tracking various dry streams before finally reaching the bottom, covered in dust, ash from recent burning and mud from sliding on our bums a few times! The sound of the river had steadily grown louder and it was truly amazing to emerge out of the bushes  and look up at the gorge - before diving into the water to cool off!

The joy of swimming in a river miles from anywhere and experiencing such incredible scenery made the many hours of dusty road completely worth it. Even the steep climb back to camp - and lack of shower at the top - couldn't take away from the place. Sitting with a glass of wine, fire lit, watching the sun go down over the gorge, we felt utter relaxation and peace. If you're up for the challenge, this is definitely an alternative side of Zambia to visit.

Some Practicalities:

• As mentioned above, make sure to bring plenty of water and all other essentials - it's a long trek down to the river to fill up your bottles, and very far to the nearest shop!
• There are cell phone towers on the road towards Bell Point, so network should be available in places, but we couldn't reach MTN. Be prepared for no connection, making sure to let people know where you're going.
• Access during the wet season may be difficult given the condition of the roads. Scrambling down to the river from the top of the gorge may also be tricky when streams are flowing.
• Should you wish to stay at Mulungushi Boat Club call Frederick Mulungushi on 097 968 5349.

Directions:

• From Lusaka, travel to Kabwe and take the first right turn immediately before the first rail crossing. Continue straight, crossing a small rail track and then veering slightly left to cross over the main rail line. Turn immediately right and then follow the left fork. This road is in decent condition (ok for 2x2) and continues for around 50km until you reach a sign on the left for Mulungushi Boat Club.
• Continuing on to Bell Point the road steadily decreases in quality and 4x4 is needed to complete the remaining 3.5 hours of the journey. Here I will try and provide more detailed directions as there are no signs, especially given how lost we got in places.
• After 4km from the Mulungushi Boat Club sign cross two bridges over the Mulungushi River and keep left. 
• After 2km (6km) take the left fork signed 'Lunsemfwa Power Station'. 
• After 24km (32km) you pass through a mine site, keep left on the main road.
• After 11km (43km) take the right fork signed 'Lunsemfwa Power Station'.
• After 4km (47km) cross over the Lunsemfwa Bridge and pass Lunsemfwa Town on the right. Within a further 1km take the right fork at a white marker post. This section of the route, from Mulungushi Boat Club to Lunsemfwa Town takes approx 1.5 hours.
• After 6km (54km) continue straight, passing a large right hand turn. A further 6km (60km) will be the last significant village before Bell Point village.
• After 6km (66km) arrive in Bell Point village, approximately 30 minutes after leaving Lunsemfwa Town. Take a right hand turn after you pass some houses. This is difficult to spot, so ask in the village. The turn looks as if it goes back the way you came. 
• After 2km (68km) take the right fork and then keep right after a further 2km (70km).
• Continue to follow the main road, continuing over a crossroads after 5km (75km) and through a village with a mill after 3km (78km).
• After 3km (81km) take the left fork, passing a community school after a further 5km (86km).
• After 1km (87km) take the left fork signed 'Mkushi Dam Site'.
• After 1km (88km) take the right fork with a borehole sign ending '04'. Pass two further borehole signs ending '01' and '03'. 
• After 5km (93km) take the right fork at the 'Mkushi Dam' sign. Another 6km (99km) or so, approximately 1.5 hours after leaving Bell Point village and around 6 hours after leaving Lusaka, you arrive at Bell Point!


Enjoy!





Road to Lunsemfwa

Blue Lagoon National Park

Browsing through our various guide books, we've been on the search for places closer to Lusaka for those weekends where heading off on a Friday afternoon just isn't possible. Blue Lagoon National Park, only 120km south-west of Lusaka, seemed to be just the place. Information in books and online seemed to be limited, so we decided to set off one Saturday morning and see what was we found.

Three and a half hours later, after 80km on a dirt road, we were really hoping the park did in fact exist and would be worth it! Although technically close, the drive through Lusaka centre and out towards Mumbwa is guaranteed to be busy, and the lack of signs as you head in the direction of the park is slightly unnerving. Following a very tiny map in the Zambia Bradt travel guide, we took a guess at a left turn, passed what looked like the former park gates and entered a clearing and the site of the former Nakeenda Lodge. This was clearly a beautiful lodge at one stage, with a large reception area and thatched chalets dotted around. Finding a lone worker attempting to rehabilitate one of the chalets, we asked about the camp, learning that it had recently been sold and was undergoing renovations. It was fine for us to pitch our own tent in the meantime though, paying the park entry fees and entering our names in a guest book.

As we began to explore, we were struck by the utter peace and remoteness, with only the sound of birds and wind in the trees to keep us company. Emerging out of the woodland, the landscape opened out onto the vast Kafue Flats, reaching as far as the eye could see. The original owners of the site, the Critchleys, built a causeway extending 5km out into the Kafue Flats, which although overgrown, is still passable. Walking along here in the late afternoon, sunbathing monitor lizards dived into the swampy waters and flocks of birds went from one tree to the next ahead of us, keeping a safe distance but maintaining their chatter. Hearing a sudden splashing, we turned in time to see a group of Lechwe leap through the water into taller reeds.

This was definitely a worthwhile trip!

Lilac-breasted roller, Malachite kingfisher, Cormarant

Heading back to camp, we settled in with our fire and began the braai, watching the moon rise and light up the trees, listening to the gentle bells of cattle as they walked through camp towards the swamps.

An early start got us to the end of the causeway for sunrise and what an experience it was! Surrounded on all sides by wetlands, you're completely alone in the world, watching the light change and the birds going about their business. Sadly the viewing platform at the end is somewhat disintegrated, but sitting on the few remaining beams we sipped some hot coffee and looked out on the world, feeling incredibly lucky to be experiencing such amazing views and peace.

Blue Lagoon is definitely a place we'll be heading back to and exploring more; the Kafue Flats are supposedly home to a number of large pythons which can be viewed in a series of pools, although given the extent of undergrowth in June we chose note to venture too close on this trip. We'd also love to head out into the waters on a makoro, to discover more of the wetlands and the wildlife hiding inside.

It's unfortunate that the road conditions limit access to the Park, as Kafue National Park can be reached in about the same time, on a tar road. However, for anyone interested in birds, wetlands and generally getting away from things, Blue Lagoon is the place to go. With the right support, this park can hopefully develop to continue protecting such a diverse ecosystem and offer this experience to people in Zambia. There's also a Blue Lagoon Trust www.bluelagoontrust.org for those who'd like to get more involved.

So, a few practicalities for anyone who fancies exploring:

Getting There:

• Although there are rumours that the road towards Blue Lagoon is going to be tarred, the current road there is predominantly dirt. It should be passable with a 2x2 but would be uncomfortable - 4x4 vehicle is recommended. 
• The total journey time from central Lusaka is 3 - 3.5 hours. I'd make sure you do this in daylight given the road condition and limited signage.
• Basic directions to the camp:
• Take the Mumbwa road out of Lusaka for at least 25km. You go through a road block and past a couple of left turns before coming to the correct turn off on the left opposite a small filling station. There is a faded sign for Blue Lagoon, but the most obvious sign is for Nampundwe Mine.
• The road is graded for about 15km towards the mine and then continues on in a less well-kept fashion. You'll drive through a few small villages along the way and pass a large road right (towards Mumbwa). This drive seems to go on forever - about 80km in total - but eventually you'll pass through the village of Keezwa and about 8km from here enter another small settlement with a small turn left. There's a faded sign saying something about exploring Blue Lagoon, and a large termite mound.
• Take the left hand turn and continue along this track (which looks as if no one has ever passed it) for about 5km and you'll enter the former Nakeenda Lodge.

At Camp

• Be prepared to be entirely self-sufficient. Nakeenda Lodge is set to re-open at some point, but from the state of the site at the moment, this will take some time. Other camps are meant to exist further along the dirt road, although we didn't travel this far to confirm. There is a rudimentary pit latrine but no running water available.
• At the time we went the grass was very long and there are obviously snakes and other creepy crawlies around so be aware in terms of footwear / first aid kit etc
• Other than that enjoy!

Introductions

My love of Zambia first began over eight years ago, when I visited the country as a gap student, no idea as to what I would encounter, but excited to be visiting somewhere many had only vaguely heard of. In the few brief months I was here, I was introduced to safari camps in Livingstone, the vast waters of Victoria Falls, the  history of Shiwa Ng'andu, and the secrets of places such as Kundalila Falls and Sunken Lake. And, as fate would have it, my 'tour guide' during these months would turn out to be the man I later married.

The Tent

After a few years more in the UK studying and working (and a few more visits to Zambia!), my husband and I began our journey back to the country, first heading to the warmer climates of South Africa to establish ourselves in the sprawling city of Johannesburg. Whilst definitely the right move for careers, friendships and fun, life in the big city would never truly be for us.  So, after much deliberating, we decided to invest in a sturdy 4x4, upgrade our crawl-in, much-used tent to a solid canvas, safari variety and travel north, moving closer to my husband's roots. And so, almost eight years after that first visit, we arrived back in Zambia, ready to begin our lives in this beautiful country and continue our adventures.

We now find ourselves living in a relatively green suburb of Lusaka, working from home as environmental and social consultants, with a thirst to discover as much as possible.  Here we get to experience the best of both worlds; with shops, restaurants and most of what we need on our doorstep, we are also located in the middle of the country only hours away from some of the most exquisite and un-visited scenery I’ve seen.

Life lessons in South Africa have taught me that it really is possible to work five (or six, or seven) days a week and then escape to another life at the weekend should you chose. No need to wait for public holidays or time off - just get the tent out, pack up some essentials and head off in whichever direction you feel. And this is our motto for life; experience everything and have fun doing it!

What we're finding in Zambia however, is that the hidden gems of the country really are hidden. Whilst my husband has childhood memories of some of these, we tend to rely on the sparse few lines found in guide books and word of mouth for some of the more off-the-beaten-track places. Zambia is still getting to grips with the internet and there is a definite lack of information available online. As such, we find ourselves packing all necessary supplies and heading in the right sort of direction many weekends, hoping to come across something, but prepared in case we don't!

What I'd like to share here are some of the more amazing sights and experiences the country has to offer, to get the word out that there's more to Zambia than Victoria Falls and expensive game parks, and to offer some tips on how to get to these places. Enjoy!